It is fairly easy to get fine detail on one side, maybe two of your model, the opposite sides, not so much. Until you have some idea what you're doing with this technique (which is what this class is for) I wouldn't recommend investing _lots_ of time in a highly detailed model unless, of course, you're doing it as a test. Keep in mind that the metal will shrink as it cools, the final casting will be a tiny bit smaller than the model you make.įor the purpose of the class I would recommend that your model be no larger than 2" in any direction, and definitely less than 8 cubic inches in volume, whatever the dimensions. You can use rubber cement, double-face tape, even cellophane tape and masking tape to hold parts together. Either the white chunky bead foam or the 'solid' stuff the blue and pink insulation foams work well, so do foam meat trays and restaurant take-home containers. You should make a model or two to try casting during class: We'll talk about how to do it "on-the-cheap". This technique is less precise than 3D printing, but much much faster.
We'll be using our coal forges and mostly scrounged materials to cast at least one small item per student. We'll be exploring the aluminum casting technique known as 'The Foam Vaporization Method' or 'Lost Foam'.Ī model is made of styrofoam, buried in loose dry sand, and poured with molten aluminum. Weekly Zoom Demonstration and Social Time (not reeellly a class) Waltham Mills Artists' Association Open Studios Our Second Birthday Party (and Open House) Middlesex 4H Fair in Westford Massachusetts The Artist Blacksmiths' Association of North America Biennial Conferenceīachelor Party or Bridal Shower - Private Partyīlacksmith House - A Public DemonstrationĬonnecticut Blacksmiths Guild meeting at MysticĪ DIY Off-the-Grid Guerilla Patternwelded Billetįold-Forming II: Fold-Forming for Blacksmithsįorging Aluminum (cold) for the Young and the Interested Aluminum Casting with the Coal ForgeĪrrowhead: The armor-piercing bodkin point
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